Strausswirtschaften für den kleinen Durst, bestbürgerliche Gasthäuser, Feinschmeckerrestaurants: Der Rheingau hat viel zu bieten, wenn es um die Verbindung von Wein und Speisen geht. Wer seinen Lieblingswinzer um Empfehlungen bittet, wird selten falsch liegen und sich anschliessend mit einiger Sicherheit in Hattenheim wiederfinden.
Will man nichts falsch machen im Rheingau, mietet man sich einfach in Hattenheim ein. Der kleine, zu Eltville zählende Ort, vom Rhein nur durch die Bundesstrasse getrennt, nennt nicht weniger als vier empfehlenswerte gastronomische Adressen sein eigen.
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Lokale, die sich auch noch deutlich voneinander unterscheiden und für aller Menschen Ansprüche etwas bieten. Wenn man denn mal von denen absieht, die auf Zwei- oder Drei-Sterne-Küche hoffen: Derlei Höhenflüge unternimmt man im Rheingau nicht, da muss man schon nach Frankfurt am Main oder in die Eifel ausweichen.
Mit dem Winzer auf du und du
Doch es muss ja nicht immer High-End-Kitchen sein. Ebenso wertvoll ist schliesslich die Kombination aus Wein und Speisen, folglich bietet sich die Nachfrage beim Winzer seiner Wahl an. Bei Wilhelm Weil zum Beispiel, dem Chef des Weinguts Robert Weil.
Der Mann kennt sie natürlich alle, die Hattenheimer Gourmetadressen, kehrt zum Mittagessen aber gern dort ein, wo er immer wieder Winzerkollegen trifft und wo auch mittags ein umfangreiches Programm gefahren wird. Letztes Mal sass August Kesseler, der Rotweinmagier aus Assmannhausen am Nebentisch, während sich unweit davon zwei namhafte Weinjournalisten niedergelassen hatten.
Sie alle schätzen hier eine Küche, die zwischen Moderne und Tradition schwankt, seit Josef Laufer Junior für frischen Wind sorgt. Seit ein paar Jahren serviert er schon mal asiatischen Nudelsalat oder Kabeljau mit Bohnenkernen und Polenta, vergisst aber nie die Klassiker: Die Blutwurst mit gerösteten Haselnüssen habe ich schon mehr als einmal bestellt, und meist vergesse ich zu sagen, dass die kleine Portion ausreichen würde.
Rheingauer und ihre Gäste haben womöglich einen gesegneteren Appetit als Gastrokritiker. Die Weinkarte, vom Seniorchef aufgebaut, listet ein paar Raritäten aus der Vorkriegszeit und erlaubt immer noch tiefe Einblicke in die hiesige Rieslingwelt der Sechziger und Siebziger – obwohl manch gute Flasche von ganz früher inzwischen ausgetrunken wurde.
Altes Schloss mit jungem Team
Noch mehr frischer Wind gefällig? Gern doch, gleich ums Eck, im Kronenschlösschen. Wenn gerade das Rheinau Gourmet Festival stattfindet, tobt hier der Bär, doch auch an anderen Tagen macht einen der neue Küchenchef Simon Stirnal glücklich. Die Weinkarte ist nichts weniger als sensationell: Einen 20 Jahre alten Riesling zu bestellen und Jüngeres erst mal reifen zu lassen, sollte Pflicht sein.
Während sich der Weinpunkt eher mit den neuen Jahrgängen beschäftigt (spannende Weine der Güter Barth, Leitz und Hans Lang) und diese zu Flammkuchen auftischt, geht es bei Franz Keller mehr ums Gesamterlebnis. Wer klug ist, bestellt in der Adler Wirtschaft nicht à la carte, sondern gibt dem Chef, einem Urgestein der Rheingauer Gastronomie, Carte blanche.
Franz Keller, Bruder des badischen Spitzenwinzers und Gastronomen Fritz Keller (Schwarzer Adler in Vogtsburg-Oberbergen), kocht am liebsten für kleine oder grosse Gruppen, stellt an Terrinen, Pasteten und Salaten auf den Tisch, was gerade da und gut ist, fährt mit Gebratenem und Gesottenem fort, lässt es an Käse und Dessert nie fehlen.
Sterneküche? Ach was. Die will Keller schon seit 1993 nicht mehr verantworten: Nachdem er sich in Köln Renommee erkochte hatte, wollte er fortan so arbeiten, wie er Lust hatte, ohne zeremonielle Menüs, ohne riesigen Serviceaufwand. Ein Visionär, der heutige Trends vorwegnahm. Was die Weine angeht, sollte man Keller übrigens ebenfalls machen lassen, nicht nur bei Riesling, sondern auch bei badischen Vertretern.
Und spätestens in dem Moment, in dem einem den Mann einen immer noch taufrischen Riesling aus den Siebzigern auf den Tisch stellt, wünscht man sich ein Gästezimmer herbei. Und stellt gleich darauf erfreut fest, dass es auch in dieser Hinsicht an nichts mangelt in Hattenheim.
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Keller verfügt über welche, das Kronenschlösschen und der Krug bieten stilvolle Übernachtung an, auch anderswo im Ort wird man fündig. Einen Grund, die Gemeinde zu verlassen, gibt es auch in schlaftechnischer Hinsicht nicht.
Gasthäuser und Restaurants im Rheingau
Weinpunkt,
Hauptstrasse 25,
65347 Eltville-Hattenheim,
Tel. 06723/913960,
mail@weinpunkt-vinothek.de,
www.weinpunkt-vinothek.de
Zum Krug,
Hauptstrasse 34,
65347 Eltville-Hattenheim,
Tel. 06723/996,
info@hotel-zum-krug.de,
www.hotel-zum-krug.de
Kronenschlösschen,
Rheinallee,
65347 Eltville-Hattenheim,
Tel. 06723/640,
info@kronenschloesschen.de,
www.kronenschloesschen.de
Die Adler Wirtschaft,
Hauptstrasse 31,
65347 Eltville-Hattenheim,
Tel. 06723/7982,
adlerwirtschaft@franzkeller.de,
www.franzkeller.de
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