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Burger – weitaus mehr als nur Fast-Food

Burger – weitaus mehr als nur Fast-Food
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Gefüllte Brötchen liegen im Trend – und ein Ende der Burger-Mode ist nicht abzusehen. Machten früher vor allem amerikanische Fast-Food-Marken das Geschäft, schiessen seit wenigen Jahren individuell geführte Spezialimbisse aus dem Boden. In fast jeder mittelgrossen Stadt haben Gourmets die Qual der Burger-Wahl. Obwohl nationale Gesamt-Rankings keinen Sinn machen, gibt es sehr wohl Anhaltspunkte für die besten Hamburger-Bratereien.

Es ist wie an jedem Tag in der Fetten Kuh. Wenige Minuten vor zwölf herrscht noch gähnende Leere auf dem Bürgersteig der Bonner Strasse, die Mitarbeiter sitzen zu einer letzten Pause an einem der Tische draussen, die Ruhe vor dem Sturm macht vergessen, dass hier gleich einige der besten Burger Kölns gebraten werden.

Über 4.000 ausgesuchte Weine preiswert im Onlineshop von Weinclub.com

Was sich seit der Eröffnung 2011 schnell herumgesprochen hat: Die frisch gebratenen Kuh-Klopse sind längst beliebt, und schon 20 Minuten nach offiziellem Verkaufsbeginn brummt der Laden. Immer neue Bestellwillige postieren sich an der Theke, treffen die Wahl zwischen „medium“ oder „rare“, zwischen Cheese- und Chiliburger, lassen sich zusätzlich noch handgeschnittene Pommes frites einpacken.

Spätestens um halb eins muss man Schlangen und Wartezeiten einkalkulieren – was aber erstaunlicherweise kaum jemanden stört. Ebenso wenig wie der Preis: Im Vergleich mit den Angeboten der grossen Ketten zahlt man für seinen Individual-Burger gut und gern das Doppelte.

MEGA-TREND BRÖTCHEN

Doch die Fette Kuh grast nicht allein auf weiter Flur. Es vergeht kaum ein Monat, in dem nicht irgendwo in Köln ein neuer auf gefüllte Brötchen setzender Laden eröffnen würde. Ein Mega-Trend also, doch einer, der auch Probleme verursacht. Fiel es am Anfang der Mode vor drei, vier Jahren noch leicht, sich von McDonald’s und Burger King abzuheben, scheint die Eigenständigkeit nun immer schwieriger zu erreichen. Fleisch zwischen Brot zu stecken, ist schliesslich keine Kunst – wie also die Besonderheiten herausarbeiten?

Wer rechtzeitig mit der Braterei angefangen hat, konnte sich immerhin eine Stammkundschaft erarbeiten, der es allenfalls mit Weekly Specials Neues zu bieten gilt; wer allerdings neu in einen schon hart umkämpften Markt eintaucht, muss sich was einfallen lassen. Lustige Namen und Zutaten zum Beispiel. „Geissbock-Burger“ vereinen Ziegenkäse und Feigensauce, ein „Glücksschmied“ Heumilchkäse und rote Pfeffersauce, und unter einem „Eitlen Gockel“ versteht man bisweilen Hähnchenbrust statt Rindfleisch sowie ein Plus von Sprossen, Wasabi und Chilisauce.

Ob das immer alles perfekt zusammenpasst, kann man diskutieren, muss aber die vor allem in Berlin zu beobachtende Kreativität bei Saucen und Gewürzen ebenso loben wie die Vielfalt der Buns: Ohne wenigstens zwei Wahlmöglichkeiten beim Brötchen und selbst gekneteten Teig geht es heutzutage kaum noch.

Rezept-Empfehlung: Rindfleischburger mit frischem Ziegenkäse einfach selbst zubereiten.

BIO, LUXUS UND VEGAN

Vor allem in den grossen Städten funktioniert das Geschäft auch nur noch selten ohne fleischlose Alternativen zum Rindfleisch-Burger. Vegetarisch darf es gern sein, sofern es nicht gleich vegan zugeht. Weizenbratlinge, ein Patty aus Saitan oder eine mit Oliven und getrockneten Tomaten angereicherter Tofu-Scheibe samt Gorgonzolacreme: Die für solche Versuche aufgeschlossene Kundschaft nimmt rasant zu, auch weil Veggi-Burger auf den ersten Blick nicht von konventioneller (Fleisch-)ware zu unterscheiden sind.

Wer auf tierisches Protein nicht recht verzichten mag, kann immer noch zu Bio-Fleisch (Holy Burger!) greifen oder wenigstens Hack von naturnah gehaltenen Tieren verspeisen. Im Hamburger Heaven, der manchen als bester Burgerbrater der Hauptstadt gilt, darf der Kunde gleich unter drei Sorten Fleisch wählen: normal, Freiland oder Bio. Macht die Logistik nicht einfacher, weshalb die Pausen zwischen Bestellung und Auslieferung hier manchmal ins Unermessliche steigen: Von Fast Food kann man in diesem Fall nicht immer sprechen.

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Sicher ein Grund, weshalb die grossen, durchrationalisierten Burger-Ketten kaum vom Markt verschwinden dürften. Ein anderer Grund sind die Marketingmassnahmen der Grossen: Die Zusammenarbeit mit dem Münchner Starkoch Alfons Schuhbeck führte McDonald’s wohl allerlei neue Kunden zu, und in der Schweiz bringt der Gigant in wenigen Tagen einen neuen Luxus-Burger in Zusammenarbeit mit Fernseh-Cuisinier René Schudel auf dem Markt.

Apropos Luxus: Die mit Blattgold, Stopfleber oder Trüffeln angerichteten Superburger finden sich, vor allem zu Marketingzwecken, eher in London und New York. Hierzulande geht es selten über 10 Euro hinaus. Der „Superhero“ der Frankfurter Burger-Schmiede Heroes Premium Burgers markiert mit 11,80 Euro schon fast das preisliche Ende der Fahnenstange, sofern man nicht den Double Giant Burger mit 500 Gramm Fleisch der Berliner 3 Veuves ordert (22,90 Euro).

Unser Test-Burger in der Fetten Kuh war übrigens deutlich zu kräftig gesalzen. Kann passieren, wenn sich Menschen individuell an Grill und Salzstreuer wagen. Nehmen wir aber gern in Kauf!

Rezept-Empfehlung: Hier geht’s zu einem einfachen und leckeren Burger-Rezept mit Brie und Röstzwiebeln.

Einige der besten Burger-Restaurants

Zürich:
Holy Cow, www.holycow.ch
Korner, www.gourmetburger.ch
Helvti Diner, www.helvti-diner.ch

Bern:
Kung Fu Burger, www.kungfu-burger.com

Basel:
Union, www.union-restaurant.com

Köln:
Die Fette Kuh, www.diefettekuh.de
Freddy Schilling, www.freddyschilling.de

München:
Holy Burger, www.holyburgergrill.de
Hans im Glück, www.hansimglueck-burgergrill.de

Berlin:
Hamburger Heaven, www.hamburgerheaven.de
Schiller Burger, www.schillerburger.com
Les 3 Veuves, www.les3veuves.de
Fräulein Burger, www.fraeuleinburger.de

Frankfurt am Main:
Heroes Premium Burgers, www.heroes-burgers.de

Hamburg:
OldMacDonald, www.oldmacdonald.de

Über den Autor

Wolfgang Fassbender ist seit 25 Jahren als freier Journalist in den Bereichen Wein und Gastronomie tätig. Der gebürtige Leverkusener hat mehr als 80 Bücher geschrieben oder herausgegeben, arbeitet für viele Zeitschriften und mehrere Zeitungen, testet sich als Restaurantkritiker durch die Welt.

Er pendelt zwischen seinen Wohnsitzen im Rheinland und Zürich.

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