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Ein Sommer ohne Muscheln – Aber warum denn nur?

Ein Sommer ohne Muscheln – Aber warum denn nur?
Copyright iStockphoto GMVozd

Ob Mies-, Herz- oder Schwertmuschel – sie alle tragen den Geschmack nach Me(eh)r in sich. Sozusagen ein kleiner Urlaub zum Essen. Doch den gibt es leider nicht das ganze Jahr über. Wir verraten Ihnen, woran das liegt.

Sie gehören zum Sommerurlaub am Meer wie der Sand, die Palmen und der spritzige Cocktail mit Schirmchen: Muscheln. Die kleinen Gehäusebewohner zählen zu den ältesten Tieren der Welt. Mit ihren etwa 10.000 bislang bekannten Arten stellen sie die zweitgrösste Gruppe unter den Weichtieren dar. Einige ihrer Vertreter – wie Jakobsmuscheln oder Austern – gelten unter Connaisseuren als das köstlichste aller Tüpfelchen auf dem i – natürlich mit dem passenden Wein.

Miesmuscheln im Tomatensugo, Spaghetti Vongole, Risotto ai Furie di mare oder die knackfrische Pizza mit Meeresfrüchten zählen zu den kulinarischen Urlaubsboten, die köstlich und schnell das mediterrane Sommergefühl daheim wiederbeleben. Denn wer verlängert die Urlaubsstimmung nicht gern – und sei es auch nur auf dem Teller!?

Urlaubsgenuss mit Sommerpause

Spaghetti mit frischen Meeresfrüchten - Das ist Urlaubsfeeling pur!
Spaghetti mit frischen Meeresfrüchten – Das ist Urlaubsfeeling pur!

Doch auch hier kann der Urlaub nicht ewig verlängert werden. Denn Muscheln haben ähnlich wie die meisten Lebensmittel eine Saison. Was der 24. Juni beim Spargel ist – nämlich das Ende seiner Saison -, sind beim Muschelgenuss die Sommermonate. Komisch, denn gerade wenn es warm und sonnig ist, locken mediterran-leichte und frische Genussmomente doch besonders.

Allerdings der Volksmund hält dagegen. Er besagt, dass Muscheln nur in den Wintermonaten Saison haben. Sprich: In allen Monaten, die mir „r“ enden. Sie beginnt also im September und endet mit dem Februar. Doch wenn es der Volksmund sagt, dann scheint dieser Brauch auch eine lange Geschichte zu haben und somit in Zeiten zurückzureichen, in denen es an durchgängigen Kühlmöglichkeiten und Hygiene mangelte.

Schliesslich gehören Muscheln zu den eher fragilen, leicht verderblichen Lebensmitteln und sollten unbedingt kühl und frisch bleiben. Wahrscheinlich ist aus diesem Qualitätsanspruch heraus die Tradition in Zeiten perfektionierter Frischelogistik geblieben.

Auch heute noch gilt beispielsweise im schleswig-holsteinischen Wattenmeer die Schonzeit vom 15. April bis zum 1. Juli jedes Jahres, um die Aufzucht von Muscheln zu sichern. In Spanien, Frankreich, Italien und Belgien ist man hingehen weniger traditionell: Hier halten die beliebten Schalentiere daher auch ausserhalb der bei uns üblichen Muschelsaison Einzug in die Küsten-Küchen.

Tradition oder Aberglaube

In Deutschland sieht das meist anders aus – und dafür gibt es, neben dem Traditionsbewusstsein – noch einen weiteren Grund: Damit wirken sie der möglichen Belastung von Muscheln mit Algengift entgegen. Denn in den warmen Sommermonaten können vermehrt hochgiftige und für das menschliche Auge unsichtbare Blaualgen im Wasser vorkommen. Das Magazin über europäische Forschung hat sich mit Blaualgen etwas tiefgründiger beschäftigt.

Da Muscheln mit ihren Kiemen die Nahrung aus dem Wasser filtern, können sie dabei Schadstoffe mitaufnehmen, die sich nicht nur negativ auf ihren Geschmack auswirken. Ihr Verzehr wird für den Menschen dann ungesund.

Zwar wird die Wasserqualität in den Erntegebieten sowie die angelandeten Muscheln von Muschelfischern und Behörden akribisch kontrolliert und somit sichergestellt, dass keine mit Algengiften belasteten Muscheln in den Handeln kommen, aber wie heisst es so schön: Vorsicht ist besser als Nachsicht. Und ausserdem: Sind nicht gerade die Dinge ganz besonders, die man ständig zur Verfügung hat. Vorfreude ist bekanntlich die schönste Freude – genau wie beim Urlaub auch. Dennoch warnt das Deutsche Zentrum der Gesundheit vor belastetem Fisch und Meerestieren im Allgemeinen.

Und bis die Muschelsaison wieder beginnt, gibt es ja auch noch viele andere leckere Sachen zum Entdecken und Ausprobieren. Warum nicht das Urlaubsfeeling mit köstlich duftender Mandelmilch zu sich nach Hause holen? Die kann man auch selber machen (wie das funktioniert erfahren Sie hier) und sich, je nach Vorliebe, mit verschiedenen Gewürzen an Urlaubsorte versetzen: Vorsichtig gewürzt mit Kardamom und Zimt erweckt die Mandelmilch Erinnerungen an den Orient zum Leben, mit Orangenschale und Vanille fühlt man sich sofort nach Sizilien zurück versetzt.

Über die Autorin

Es gibt sie ganz selten. Doch Anja Hanke hat das grosse Glück zu ihnen zu gehören: Den Menschen, die ihr Hobby zum Beruf machen konnten.

Sie liebt gutes Essen, handgefertigte Weine, erlesene Produkte und diese Verbindung an den verschiedensten Orten dieser Welt einzufangen – und für ihre Leser genussvoll aufzubereiten.

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Bea f

Ende Sept

Bea f

Hatte auch kürzlich Vongole gekocht aber die hatten kein Biss u waren matschig ist das die Qualität welche nicht gut war oder die Leichzeit?

Anja Hanke

Hallo Daniel, ja das trifft zu, wobei dieser Zeitraum aufs ganze Jahr gesehen, nur wenige Woche oder ein, zwei Monate ausmacht. Besonders fein sind Muscheln kurz vor der Laichzeit, da sie dann besonders fleischig sind.

Daniel RaDomsky

Danke für diesen Aufschlussreichen Artikel. Eine Muschelfrage hätte ich noch die mich interessiert. Stimmt es das Muscheln besonders Vongole in der warmen Jahreszeit nicht so gut schmecken, da sie in dieser Zeit leichen und das Fleisch von minderer Qualität ist?

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